The Ellis Dress Merchant & Mills Fall Sewing

30/10/2022

One of the many reasons I chose to sew the Ellis dress by Merchant and Mills is because my sewing machine button ‘Holer’ is playing up. I’m not sure if it’s me or the machine but suffice to say the Ellis has a rouleaux loop and button fastening, thank goodness!

The Other Reasons

It has been on my want to sew list for months. The style is very Toast like.

I found the perfect Autumnal, soft and cosy fabric.

It will be a quick sew.

The Hattie & Ellis Dress My plans.

My plans are simple. To lengthen the sleeves and skirt as this will be a winter dress. Use the patch pockets from the Hattie dress to replace the inseam pockets on the Ellis dress. Why? Bigger pockets that’s why. Plus, I will be wearing this dress around the house on repeat, and have you heard anyone ever complain about their pockets being too big? Although I am still undecided, it will depend on how the fabric hangs and I have a feeling my chosen fabric has too much drape to support such large fabric. They would be perfect for a linen dress.

My Fabric Choice.

I chose this fabric, because of its simple check pattern and because it has a brushed flannel feel one side is fleecy. It has a lot of drape is lightweight and it was only £7 per meter. I bought five meters, as Im also planning to make a sweatshirt style top with matching wide trousers for lounging around in. Unfortunately, it frays badly so my overlocker has been my best friend. Apart from that I have no idea what this fabric is made of?

Ellis Dress Pattern Notes.

I would advise you to make sure you cut all the pattern marking notches out and mark dart placements with tailor’s chalk or tailor’s tacks. This ensures accurate placement and really does make your life easier when fitting.

The instructions as usual with M&M patterns are superb, clear and precise.
lazy daisy jones

Ellis Dress Bodice Notes

This simple cut has a crew, high fitting neckline, 4 darts shape it beautifully to your neck and upper chest. The waistline is higher than your natural waist with two long darts that shape it nicely. The sleeves are a straight, with no cuffs just a hem. The back opening is short and fastens with a rouleaux self-fabric loop and button. So far so good, but I have a largish head and next time I will make the opening at least 3 CMS longer (that is just over an inch).

Ellis Dress Sleeve Notes

As mentioned, the sleeves are a classic straight sleeve sewn with the traditional set-in method. I re traced the pattern onto thin card and lengthened my sleeve to full length, keeping the armhole size the same. For the cuffs I will add a self-fabric lining piece just at the inside of the cuff, so when I roll back the sleeves, the seams won’t show. The short sleeved summery version is finished with a hem. I do advise gathering the sleeve tops before sewing the seams as this makes everything easier. The instructions as usual with M&M patterns are superb, clear and precise.

fall sewing Ellis dress Merchant and Mills — sleeve details Ellis dress

Ellis Skirt & Pocket Notes.

Pockets, patch or in seam can be swapped around depending on personal taste. I do like the huge patch pockets from the Hattie Dress, but because I was using a soft fabric, I decided to go with the in-seam version included with the Ellis dress. Very simple construction, be sure to add two rows of gathering for skirt because it does help to keep the gathers even.

In General

A quick and simple sew, that produces a very wearable classic dress! I plan on making many more. Next make might even be from a knitted fabric! Imagine this dress in a cream cable knitted fabric.