Sew-along McCalls 3341 Part 1: Pattern layout, cutting and marking
This sew-along is for the less experienced sewer, or for those of you who can sew, but have not sewn for some time and need a little ‘bump start’ to make this simple ‘A’ line skirt…
Part two can be found HERE
Part three can be found HERE
Part four or ‘show and tell’ can be found HERE
Before you begin See this post HERE for prep advice!
I am using a lightweight denim for this sew-along.
This is my fabric opened out…showing you the direction of the ‘grain’ because your pattern will ask you to pin on the ‘straight of the grain’
Open your paper pattern instruction sheet, it will tell you everything you need to know and I will help you to ‘translate’ anything puzzling!..
Look at the sizes on the back of the pattern and check which is nearest to yours,
I think the skirt comes up slightly larger in reality especially at the hips.
So my waist is not a 28 (more like a 30!) but the size 14 fits me. this is a bit trial and error I know, if you are worried about ruining your best fabric try making it with a scrap fabric first?
Identify from the front envelope which view/style of skirt you are going to make I am making view D in a size 14.
Open out the pattern sheet and identify pieces 1 and 2 first,
This is the front and back of the skirt.
Cut out the paper pattern pieces by cutting the hem line across that corresponds to your veiw/length.
and the line down sides that correspond to your size.
I have cut the paper pattern at ‘D’ for a size 14
I always cut out my ‘notches’ on a pattern…this is where you see a black triangle or one or two black diamonds. It helps to match up the fabric pieces later.
Next identify pieces 3 and 4 in your size, this is the facing that goes inside the skirt at the top. cut them out too.
Put all the other bits away in the envelope so you don’t get confused later.
Pattern cutting layout
First measure the width of your fabric from selvedge to selvedge mine is 150cms.
Therefore after checking the cutting layout on the instruction sheet, use the one appropriate to you fabric.
This is mine.
Fold your fabric according to the layout you are using, depending on your width..
Pin your 4 pieces onto your fabric copying the layout, mine has two pieces facing down along the fold line see…
Pin into corners, it makes it easier to cut accurately…
When pinned, you are ready to cut out these four pieces…
(use dressmaking scissors if you have them, they make for straight lines and easier cutting because of their shape and sharpness)
Here are my pieces all cut out….
Pattern to fabric marking.
We now have to transfer some important guide marks from the pattern to our fabric.
there are many ways to do this, chalk pens are good, you may have your own favoured method or ideas?
Look at your paper pieces pinned to the fabric, see the dots? those dots are marking the position of the darts that will give your skirt shape and fit.
we need to transfer the dots to the fabric so we can sew the darts accurately….
This is the chalk method, simply trace the lines onto the fabric from the pattern…using chalk or a fabric marker.
I use ‘tailor tacking’ it is not the quickest way, but I am ‘old school’
A ‘tailor’s tack’ is a large loop sewn over the dot like this…
the thread is used double
Cut the loop, remove the paper pattern, gently open the two pieces and snip in the middle again.
Both pieces have a mark and it is very accurate….
Here are the darts marked clearly
You can decide which method you prefer.
Chalk or tailor’s tacks….?
Finally all cut out and marked.
Here are all the pieces so far…leave the pattern pieces on the two facing pieces until we need them.
Ok thats enough for today, get your pieces all cut out correctly and mark them with chalk or tacks and we are ready to sew in the PART TWO !
Until then, I am happy to answer any questions that arise and will answer them on the post, so check back here for answers.
from me and my furry assistant..
Update: Part Two of this sew-along can be Found HERE